5/05/08
Sarah, a fellow volunteer teacher, and I loved to head out from the school and take long walks in the rainforest.
One evening, during a full moon, Sarah and I put on our headlamps and set off on a night journey. We met on the road and walked down the road with the moon casting a grey-blueish shadow and dimly lighting our way. The full moon cast a silver-blue hue over the tall rainforest trees. You could hear, and almost feel the restlessness that the moon was creating amongst the colonies of insects, animals, and plants of the rainforest. You felt yourself tucked inside its world amongst butterflies curled under leaves, Toucans perched on branches, snakes keeping warm under fallen foliage, alligators lying still in a pond with only their nostrils and eyes peering up at the moon. You weren’t alone in the rainforest-especially on a moonlit night.
As Sarah and I walked down the road in the quiet of the night, few cars passed. We didn’t make our usual stop at the local karaoke tavern, but dept on down the paved small road. This road was deceptive. One minute you felt comfortable walking down it and waving to the country folk in their simple homes, and the next, a Dole Banana truck would pass by you at 80 miles and hour coming so close to you that you felt the breeze it left in its wake. In the eight months that I lived in Sarapiqui, one drunk and two children were hit and killed.
After walking about twenty minutes in the dark, we spotted a dirt road off to the left that led past a hovel of tin roof shacks where illegal Nicaraguan immigrants lived. One time I visited an 8th grade student of mine who lived in one of the shacks. I was taken aback. It’s one thing to see poverty from afar, and have no real connection to it, but another thing to see a child that you know living with so little. When I stepped inside her house to meet her parents, they were sitting on chairs atop a dirt floor. In a separate section of the house were two beds atop the packed dirt floor, one for four children, and another for the parents. They also had a TV blaring in the shack. I watched them watching the TV, and tried to imagine what it must be like to do back-straining work all day, carrying and harvesting one hundred pound bags of bananas and then coming home at night and watching the TV- peering into a world of fancy cars, and big, comfortable houses.
We kept following the dirt road that wound around a hill. We turned off our headlamps because the dim light of the moon was enough to light our path. We reached the top of the hill, which was flat and littered with an old car, a fridge lying on its back with the door flung open, and the foundation of an old house that used to have a phenomenal view. From the top of the hill we could see the rainforest canopy below, the Rio Sarapiqui that snaked through it, the vast, open expanses of cut forest turned into cattle pasture, the points of light from the distant houses in remote regions, the rain forested mountain ridge to the south, and the full moon lighting it all in a phosphorescent glow.
Sarah and I didn’t speak for a time as we stood in awe of the beauty below and above us. The silence was finally broken by the sound of a few local kids coming up the road. They were kids that we knew from our after school program. One boy jumped in the old fridge and pretended that it was a boat that he was rowing out to sea in. Seeing that made me smile, and gave me hope that as long as a child had imagination, was surrounded by the purity of nature, had some rice and beans to eat, and a rusted tin roof overhead, life could be good, and magic could be made by a child playing in a pile of junk on a moonlit hill.
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